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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.